How Lab-Grown Skin is Shaping the Future of Ethical Beauty Testing -

The cosmetics industry has made remarkable strides in recent years toward developing more ethical methods of product testing, and one of the most significant innovations has been the development of lab-grown human skin–but this has not been without controversy.

L’Oréal has long been a leader in the development of skin models for cosmetic testing. In fact, the company created the first reconstructed human epidermis in 1983, and by 1986, they had developed a full skin model consisting of both the epidermis and dermis. Their continuous innovations culminated in a 2015 partnership with Organovo, a company specializing in 3D skin printing.

Creating lab-grown skin involves cultivating human skin cells on a scaffold to replicate the natural structure of skin. This process not only reduces the reliance on animal testing but also improves the accuracy of testing by simulating real human skin. By growing skin in a controlled environment, companies can better understand how products interact with skin without the ethical concerns that come with using animals in experiments.

But L’Oréal isn’t the only company exploring this technology. Many other companies have followed suit, using similar techniques to produce human skin models for cosmetic testing. These companies typically rely on adult-derived stem cells or induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs), which offer a more ethical alternative to embryonic stem cells.

The Controversy of Embryonic Stem Cells: A Lack of Regulation and Transparency in Cosmetic Testing

While most cosmetic companies have moved away from using embryonic stem cells in favor of more ethically acceptable alternatives, the use of these cells remains a controversial issue. Embryonic stem cells are derived from excess embryos donated by IVF clinics, which often sparks ethical debates due to the destruction of human embryos involved in the process.

Currently, there are no specific laws or regulations requiring cosmetic companies to disclose whether they are using embryonic stem cells in their products or testing procedures. While certain countries have strict guidelines on stem cell research, including prohibitions on using embryonic stem cells for commercial purposes, these regulations primarily focus on the medical and pharmaceutical industries, leaving the cosmetic sector largely unregulated in this regard.

Although there is growing demand for ethical transparency in the beauty industry, many consumers remain unaware that stem cells derived from human embryos might still be used in some testing processes. In contrast, iPSCs—adult cells that are reprogrammed to behave like embryonic stem cells—have emerged as a more ethical alternative. iPSCs avoid the ethical concerns tied to the destruction of embryos, making them the preferred choice for companies focused on reducing the moral issues associated with stem cell use.

The absence of clear regulations or mandatory labeling has raised concerns within the clean beauty movement, which advocates for transparency and accountability in the products consumers purchase. Many ethical beauty brands are striving to avoid the use of embryonic stem cells altogether, but due to the lack of regulatory standards, it’s not always clear which companies are making these ethical choices.

Ethical Innovation and the Push for Transparency

The growing adoption of 3D skin printing in the cosmetics industry represents a major shift toward more humane and precise testing methods. Lab-grown skin is making cosmetic testing more accurate, reliable, and ethically sound than ever before.

Since the mid-2010s, particularly with L’Oréal’s partnership with Organovo in 2015, the industry has made significant strides in adopting these innovative testing methods. As the sector continues to evolve, both consumers and companies are likely to push for greater transparency and regulation surrounding stem cell use—particularly as it becomes more widespread—to ensure that ethical considerations remain central to cosmetic innovation. The future of beauty testing is not only about technological advancement but also about fostering a more responsible, ethical, and transparent industry.

References:

1.
Wang M, Zhang L, Hao H, Yan M, Zhu Z. Applications of Engineered Skin Tissue for Cosmetic Component and Toxicology Detection. Cell Transplantation. 2024;33. doi:10.1177/09636897241235464